Ball Python
Python Regius
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Overview
Ball Pythons are one of the most popular pet snakes in the world due to their calm temperment, managable size, and relatively simple care. Native to western and central Africa, these snakes are known for curling into a tight ball when they feel stressed or threatened - hence ball python.
Life Span
The average lifespan of a Ball Python is 20-30 years and with excellent care can live up to 40+ years. Not a lot of people think about that when they see that little snake in the store. Even though they aren't a "giant" snake, they do live a long time with proper care. The oldest ball python was from a zoo in Missouri, USA and she got to be at least 62 years old!
Size & Growth
Ball pythons don't grow to extreme lengths, but I wouldn't consider them small snakes either. Hatchlings (baby ball pythons) are anywhere from 10-17 inches in length. Juveniles grow to roughly 2-3 feet long, and adult males can get up to 4 feet, while the females can reach 5+ feet long! Growing is fairly rapid in years 1-3 and slows down after that as the snake approaches its full adult size.
Enclosure Size
Hatchlings (0-6 months) will need at least a 20-gallon enclosure.
Juveniles (6 months - 2 years) will need roughly a 40-gallon enclosure.
Adults (2+ years) should have at least a 4-foot x 2-foot x 2-foot enclosure but making it bigger only benifits the snake.
Necessities
A ball python will need these items in their enclosure: A warm hide, cool hide, water bowl large enough to soak in, climbing opportunities for enrichment, and a secure enclosure (these guys are escape artists).
Temperature & Heating
Warm side - 88-92 F (31-33 C)
Cold side - 76-82 F (24-27 C)
Night - 75+ F (24+ C)
Heating Options
Halogen Heat bulbs are great for the daytime and will provide a good spread of ambient heat throughout the enclosure.
Deep Heat Projectors are another good option and provide the same ambient heat needed for the enclosure.
Radiant Heat Panels are another popular option for heating a tank.
A heating mat placed below their hide, and on the outside of the tank will provide some good heat for the snake to be comfortable in.
IMPORTANT SIDE NOTES
AVOID colored bulbs and heat rocks. ALL heating devices should be ran alongside a thermostat to ensure safety not only for the snake, but for you and your house. You don't want to burn your snake, nor do you want to burn your house down!
Humidity
Humidity level for a ball python is very important. Snakes are susceptible to Respiratory Infections, so making sure they have the correct humidity is not to be overlooked.
Ideal range - 55-70%
During shed - 65-80%
Signs humidity is low are wrinkled skin, stuck shed, and a dry appearance.
Diet & Feeding Schedule
Ball Pythons eat rats or mice, and the size of the rats/mice will grow along with the size of your snake. Weened rats have shown to be more nutritious for snakes than mice, so if you have the option to feed younger snakes rats, it helps with growth. At the bottom of this page will be a chart to help you figure out what size feeder your snake should be eating.
Babies - every 7-10 days
Juveniles - every 7-10 days
Adults - every 10-21 days
Hydration
Ball Pythons need fresh water available at all times. Many ball pythons like to soak inside of their water dish, so the dish must be big enough for them to comfortably do so. Another factor to hydrating your snake is humidity, though too much can harm your snake.
Handling & Behavior
Generally, ball pythons are very calm and slow moving. They usually tolerate handling well and will curl up into a ball when nervous well before biting anyone. That all being said, avoid handling 48 hours after feedings, to ensure your snake doesn't mistake your finger for it's next meal.
Common Health Issues
Respiratory Infections (RI) - Usually caused by low temperatures or incorrect humidity. Symptoms of RI include wheezing, open mouth breathing, and mucus around the nostrils and front of the mouth, sometimes making small bubbles while breathing.
Stuck Shed - Of all of the health issues to have, a stuck shed is one of the easiest to deal with. Caused by improper heat, and humidity in the enclosure, it can be resolved by increasing humidity, or even soaking your snake in a bath at 75-85 F (26-29 C) will help the stuck shed pull away from the skin. DO NOT pull and pick at stuck shed. Imagine the stuck shed being a really gnarly hangnail and a giant came and yanked the rest of it off. OUCH!
Scale Rot - Caused by poor habitat conditions, high humidity, and a wet environment. Scale rot can irritate skin, and discolor belly scales. The skin gets covered in nasty bacteria and can infect the snake through the bloodstream, ending the snake's life in severe cases.
Parasites - Parasites can come from bad substrate, poorly maintained enclosures, and feeders that are carrying parasites. Signs your snake has parasites are weight loss, even when eating, poor appetite, and abnormal stool.
Substrate Recommendations
Coconut Husk, Cypress mulch, Reptile-safe soil blends, and paper towels during quarantine and moving phases.
AVOID - Pine, Cedar, and any dusty bedding
Key Takeaway
Ball pythons are a great starter reptile. They're calm hardy snakes when their heat, humidity, and enclosure needs are met. Most all of the health issues concerning ball pythons can be avoided with proper care. With patience alongside proper care, you can have a long-lived companion for decades.
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