Bearded Dragon
Pogona Vitticeps
Pogona Vitticeps
Overview
Bearded Dragons are one of the most popular beginner reptiles due to their calm temperament, interactive behavior, and relatively simple care requirements. That being said there is a lot to learn before getting your first! Let's check it out!
Life Span
The average life span of a captive bred bearded dragon is 8-12 years, though the oldest bearded dragon recorded was "Barti", who lived in Australia and grew up to be 20 years and 155 days old!
Size & Growth
Baby bearded dragons (hatchlings) are roughly 3-4 inches long. Within the first 2-3 months, hatchlings will rapidly grow and can double in size if properly fed and kept in the proper conditions. By about 6 months old, most juveniles will reach roughly 10-16 inches in length. Between 6-12 months, growth begins to slow down as they get closer to their full size, normally reaching 18-24 inches.
Fun Fact: The "German Giant" breed can reach up to 28 inches!
Enclosure Size
Hatchling (0-6 months)
A hatchling will require a 20-40 gallon tank, with few decorations so its not hard for them to find their food, and get the light coverage they need.
Juvenile (6-12 months)
Juvenile bearded dragons require a 40-75 gallon tank, and you can start to introduce decorations, and substrate to the enclosure.
Adults (12+ months)
Adults bearded dragons need a minimum of 120 gallons (4 foot x 2 foot x 2 foot), but bigger is always better for enrichment. Giving them plenty of room to roam, and bask at whatever temperature they please is a necessity.
Substrate Recommendations
For a hatchling (0-6 months), it's best to keep your little critter on paper towels, to keep a better eye on it, as well as make it easier for them to find their way around.
Juvenile and Adults can use a variety of substrates. Most common are tile, reptile carpet, and reptile safe soil mixes. You can also mix play sand with organic topsoil to provide a more realistic, and plant-able habitat.
AVOID loose calcium sand, walnut shell bedding, wood chips, anything dusty or scented, and any reptile sand that isn't vet recommended.
Temperature & Lighting
Temperature and lighting are two of the most important parts of proper bearded dragon care. These reptiles rely on external heat and UVB light to regulate their body temperature, digest food, and absorb essential nutrients like calcium. Without the correct heat and lighting, even a healthy diet and eclosure won't be enough to keep them healthy long-term.
Basking Spot (recommended flood bulb)
100-110 F ( 18-24 C)
Cool Side
17-85 F (24-29 C)
Night Time
65-75 F ( 18-24 C)
UVB (recommended linear tube)
UVB is needed for 10-12 hours per day
Diet & Feeding
Hatchlings (0-6 months)
70-80% insects and 20-30% greens
2-3 times per day!
Juveniles (6-12 months)
60% insects and 40% greens
1-2 times daily!
Adults (12+ months)
20-30% insects and 70-80% greens
3-5 times per week!
Healthy greens for bearded dragons include Collard greens, Mustard greens, Turnip greens, Dandelion greens, Endive (escarole), Arugula, Waterdress, Romaine lettuce, Chicory greens, and Radicchio.
Some healthy insect feeder options are Silkworms, Crickets, and Roaches.
Some foods are better to give in moderation, due to issues with their diet. Some good occasional treats are Waxworms, Butterworms, Superworms, Hornworms, Blueberries, Strawberries, Raspberries, Mango, Papaya, Apple (no seeds!), Watermelon, Grapes, Carrots, Squash, Bell peppers, Peas, and Sweet Potato.
Supplements
You will need to add Calcium Powder to your bearded dragon's diet in order to promote strong bone growth and reduce the chance of bone diseases.
4-5 times per week (5-7 times per week with hatchlings recommended)
Hydration
Bearded Dragons will need a fresh water dish, even if they don't use it often. Be sure to check it daily and clean it as needed, they can be messy!
Handling & Behavior
Bearded Dragons are generally calm and social when properly handled. If you regularliy handle them, they will build trust, and assosiate you with comfortability and safety. Babies can be fairly skiddish, but are on the other hand very curious. Using food will help you gain the trust of your little companion. Start by leaving food in the cage with them and monitoring. Eventually work your hand closer and closer to them with each feeding. Once they're comfortable with eating in your presence, try giving them some treats off of your hand. Letting them come to you is a very important part of building a bond with any reptile. Forcing handling can be very stressful on the reptile, and can cause injury, and sometimes worse.
Common Health Issues
Bearded Dragons are amazing reptiles, but just like any living thing, they can experience some pretty harsh health related issues, some of which we can prevent as a keeper.
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is caused from low calcium in their diet, and lack of UVB. When calcium is low in the body, its starts pulling it from the bones to survive. The bones get weak, and can deform. They lose muscle control and have issues with their nervous system.
Impaction is when the reptiles digestive tract is block, which puts pressure on organs. This can be caused by eating loose substrate, eating foods that are far too big for it, low temperatures, dehydration, and lack of fiber.
Respiratory Infections are caused by bacteria that attack the lungs. This is usually caused by poor habitat conditions. Things that contribute are low temperatures, high humidity for extended periods, poor ventilation, stress, and dirty enclosures.
Parasites are tiny bugs that live in or on the bearded dragon's body. They can cause irritation to skin, and damage to organs. Usually bearded dragons get parasites from poorly maintained enclosures, dirty food and water dishes, and wild-caught or contaminated feeders.
Types of parasites: Coccidia, Pinworms, Flagellates (protozoa), Mites, and rarely ticks.
Symptoms: Weight loss even when eating, Diarrhea or very loose stool, undigested food in feces, low energy, low appetite, swollen abdomen, and restlessness.
Prevention: Only use captive-bred feeder insects, keep the enclosure clean and dry, regularly check feces, always quarantine new reptiles, and always wash your hands!
Treatment: Requires a fecal test at the vet, and they are prescribed medications based on what parasite they have. Deep clean the infected reptile's enclosure, and sometimes unfortunately repeated treatments are necessary.
Key Takeaway
Bearded Dragons are hardy reptiles, but only when they have the proper care. Most health issues come from improper care and can be prevented. If you take care of your bearded dragon right, then you will have one of the most rewarding and best first reptiles.